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Water and exercise Not drinking enough water can have a major effect on your performance. You should start any exercise session well hydrated. This means drinking water regularly throughout the day. The choice Straighht drink depends on the intensity and duration of the exercise, and your training goals. In general: only hrre is needed for moderate exercise that lasts less than an hour an isotonic sports drink, milk, or a combination of high-carbohydrate food and water for hard sessions that last longer than an hour You can make a homemade sports drink with ml of squash not low calorieml water and a large pinch of salt. What to eat after exercise Food and drink also plays a part in recovering effectively from training.
It leaves a nice flat-bottomed slot. That irritating creak is the sound of the windings skidding over grooves impressed inside the nut slot.
Saws seldom match the precise width of the string, which can roll side to side in the slot. Nut slots I prefer to shape my slots in the shape of a horn's bell: The point of this is to offer a smooth surface for the string to travel from the tuning machine to the wantin point of final contact at the front of the slot, where it is held firmly to define the end of the vibrating string length. You should start any exercise session well hydrated.
When the string is way below the top of the nut, you have great difficulty telling whether it's seating properly.
The nut is in yellow, the fingerboard is dark brown. Anything more is just in the way. Before going further, here's how to correct a string slot that's too low.
If it's too flat some repair books actually advocate this! I have a couple of saws I use for widening and deepening in preparation for an implant. The al transfer is compromised because of the limited contact, and the string sizzles on the fret or the board.
They also tend to bind and squeak. I ordinarily leave a nut slot a little higher than necessary at first, to allow for the string to cut itself a little lower.
If you hold any string down on t fret of a well set up instrument, you'll see that same preferred clearance at the next fret up. A quick word about creaking guitar G strings: this issue is fading as elephant ivory nuts are fading. I'm reluctant to as a measurement—it's very little. The D's, being wound, tend to refine their own slots.
Ivory is soft and actually registers the imprint of string windings. This is bad: If the slot is angled back, but left a straight line, it will bind on the back edge, and the front edge will wear down from playing and the string is at risk for sizzling on the first fret or on the surface of the board. Ideally, the nut slot height is identical to any other fret. The sketch above relates to fretted instruments, but the basic principles are no different for violin family and other unfretted instruments.
The Staright itself needs to be shaped in a way that it not only fits the diameter of each individual string, but also such that the string has firm contact with the nut at the very front of the slot. Next: strings will work their way down a v-cut, often bottoming out on frets or the board, as mut case may be with fretless instruments. How much is a trace?
Bone is superior to ivory for a nut material because it's harder and burnishes better. The sketch below illustrates how - and how not - to shape a slot for any string. Here's the same slot seen looking straight down from above: The string's other curve, from, say, the farthest peg on the bass side of the hetock, also elides with the inside of the bell-shaped slot, guided gently and directly to the front where it's held firmly by its own tension inside the confines of a well cut slot.
When you tune, you always tune wantinv to a note, never down, right? Water and exercise Not drinking enough water can have a major effect on your performance.
Whether the string is coming from the top or the bottom of the string post, it will slide smoothly into the nut slot. Avoiding hitting the first fret, assuming there is one, I cut down below the blown slot, sometimes almost to the board itself, angling the saw back a bit. It takes little more effort to implant a little patch of bone or even pearl into the nut and recut the slot.
Notice that the string connects with a smooth curved surface, no corner or edge.
Often it's wiser to repair a blown slot than it is to replace the whole nut. Next: a slot that's cut with a saw has a roughly flat bottom and also affords poor acoustic coupling.
Find out how to start losing weight and read about the NHS weight loss plan. The string is the green line, and the tuning machines are off to the right somewhere. Mandolin A's are always the most troublesome because they have to make compound bends from the nut: back as well as to one side.
Then I prepare the piece of bone or whatever: ebony for a violin or cello by carefully filing a piece of the material with a fine flat file until it slips snugly into the slot. Here's an idea of how it works on a bass: Having the slot cut too high above the frets or an unfretted board of some type means that the act of pressing the string down to the first few frets actually stretches the string, raising the pitch and throwing the intonation off in the process.
Here's a treble side view: The bell here is imaginary. How do you easily determine the ideal height of the string slot in the nut? One is a fine hacksaw blade in a short handle, which is for wider strings. Here's a shimmed-up mess of a nut that has all the problems: These slots are all too deep, but the B is still so high it doesn't play in tune, so someone shoved a piece of ebony under it to try and correct the intonation.
Left: like the messy nut above, the nut material is too high.
It has nothing to do with the tuning machines, which people just love to blame, but everything to do with setup, particularly how precisely the string slots at the nut are cut. Quick fixes like some kind of dust bone, acrylic, baking soda with superglue herf really temporary. last reviewed: 20 May Next review due: 20 May Support links. People often comment on certain strings e.
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